Fashion week so far is definitely sticking with it's mature colour schemes, analogous hues and complimentary tones. What was most striking about Day 3 to me was how they dressed the girls like men. But look closely and the pieces are tailored carefully to fit around women's figures. Velvet, corduroy, wool, viscose are just some of the huge variety of fabrics used. Also, I found the staging/lighting this year to work well with delivery the entire package of the collections: colours, textures, silhouettes, forms.
Some designers that experimented with androgyny:
Paul Smith
Hands down favourite designer of the day. Chiseled tailoring, skilled feminisation of classic male silhouettes. He's used Alexander Wang's logic: simplicity but immaculate details upon closer inspection. Each piece has a block tone, but under the brilliantly set up lighting, you can see the quality of the fabrics. Recently
Tumblr and
American Apparel have made me consider investing in a pair of velvet leggings/pants. After seeing this collection I'm definitely going to buy a pair!
Margaret Howell
These designs are losing Paul Smith's body tailoring and going for a more loose, relaxed shape. There is less emphasis on the women's figure and more on comfort. From my previous posts I always talked about comfort in fashion and so this design is definitely a highlight for me. The pants could literally be mens pants, same goes to those shoes. There were skirts as well though, like the last look (which I think is adorable!) Loving the dark navies and blacks in this collection!
Vivienne Westwood Red Label
There's something very femme fatale but manned up about this collection. In the top 3 looks VW creates almost one-piece/jump suit styles, using the same colours top and bottom. I love how the jacket of the 1st one really emphasises on the waist. The all leather look is so rocker I think I'd probably wear it next time I go to a gig or something. Reminds of David Bowie and Brian Slade.
The bottom set of outfits to me really describes what VW is all about. Classy as hell but there's something very modernised, edgy and punk about all her looks. The white t-shirt look very juxtaposed, and the Asian girl with the asymmetric dress literally looks like she's just walked out of a Tim Burton film. Check out those (cavemen) markings on her legs! I'm also shipping the tousled hairstyles~
Next up I want to talk about the amazing set of coats all the designers had in their collections. The styles vary so much it's better to just take a look:
Unique
My favourite brand based on coats has got to be Unique. I cannot express how in love I am with this colour scheme of blacks, metal greys and dark greens. I want the entire 2nd look soooo bad I actually searched on where in London are the Unique outlets. I would probably categorise these as casual day looks~ imagine strutting it in NYC!
Nicole Farhi
First of all, excellent choice of location to match with this collection. I'm liking how she's sporting those 40s knee length long coats and the clean, brushed back (almost oiled) hair. Very feminist and really defines what fashion would mean back in the days. I don't know if it's the camera's work, but the slightly eerie stone like faces of the models also add to this fantastic gray palette. Reminds me of looking at Coco Chanel's old pictures in black and white. Bravo to the French!
J.W.Anderson
Spacesuits, plastics, flatforms. Is this what the world is heading towards 2012? The puffy dresses/coats look soooo comfy though..
Acne
There's a trend going on the the massive coats with the belt at the waist I think. Lots of designers embraced that. Acne's coats are also very statement minimalist and I think also quite futuristic. Would love to get my hands on that cropped peach jacket because it would go with anything, and also the bright orange one to just wear indoors. It's like a massive duvet in coat form! Also, check out those amazing auburn pants!
And finally,
Thomas Tait
To be honest, I think this type of large, flat, shapeless coats are becoming in fashion on the high street already. I've seen Zara do quite a few of them in the past 5 months or so. Incredibly stylish but really really heavy to wear. It's like carrying a huge heavy bag, but having the weight equally distributed around the body haha. Not what I would go for, but the minimalist inside me is really shipping this look. Also love the fancy collar to the first Barbour-ish one!
Whilst looking through the collection photos and videos, I spotted these jumpers that immediately caught my eye. Wasn't so much into cropped jumpers back in the day but right now I think they look so good with maxi skirts, especially the ones with puffy sleeves. Also, orange, black and white
works anytime, anywhere.
The baby blue one *sigh*. It's so UNF.
That's it folks! Need to busy myself with some work now.. Will be back with LFW Day 4! xx
